What is the difference between heirloom and hybrid seeds/plants?
Heirloom seeds/plants are those that have not been genetically modified, but by nature, have been naturally selected to grow in a particular area. Heirloom plants are open-pollinated and the seeds can be saved and used year-to-year.
Hybrid or F1 indicates that the seeds/plants have been bred artificially using genetics and selective breeding for specific plant traits. Hybrid plants usually produce larger yields and are more disease resistant and uniform in shape than heirlooms. However, these seeds cannot be saved from year-to-year as they may not be “true” to the variety.
What is the difference between indeterminate and determinate tomatoes?
Indeterminate (also called "vining") tomato varieties continue to grow and produce fruit until the plant is killed by frost in the fall. These type of tomatoes can reach 10+ feet tall by the end of the growing season. To help manage these long vines, indeterminate tomatoes require support structures such as cages and/or stakes. Pruning also helps to control growth. Indeterminate tomatoes are not recommended for container gardening due to their large size!
Determinate (also called "bush") tomatoes are genetically modified or naturally selected to grow to a pre-determined compact size (usually less than 4 feet tall). Determinate tomatoes tend to set fruit around the same time period (4-6 weeks) and then the plants die. Cages help to contain bush varieties, but are not necessary for this type of plant. Do not prune these type of tomato (unless to remove diseased or damaged stems) to prevent stunted growth. Determinate tomatoes do well in containers due to their compact size and are an excellent choice for home canners.
What is the difference between pole and bush beans?
Pole beans continue to grow and produce fruit until killed by frost in the fall. Since pole beans can reach 6-8 feet tall by the end of the growing season, support structure (e.g., stakes in a teepee shape or fence-like trellis) are required to manage the long vines. Pole beans need to be picked every other day to keep the vines productive.
Bush beans are compact plants (no more than 3 feet tall) that set fruit and mature quickly over a short period of time and then die. Support structures are not necessary for bush beans.
I found that bush beans are more tender and have a sweeter taste than pole beans which have a nuttier taste. But this may be just due to differences in the variety I grew.
What is the difference between an annual, perennial, and biennial plants?
Annuals are plants that complete their life-cycle within one year. Since the entire plant dies (roots, stems, and leaves), annuals must be replanted the following year. Example: cucumber, peppers, tomato
Perennials are plants that come back year after year. In late fall, the tops of these plants die back but will begin to regrow the following spring. Example: rhubarb, oregano, sage
Biennials are plants that complete their life-cycle in two years. Example: parsley, carrots, leeks
What do the following statements mean?
"X weeks before the last frost" refers to the time before the average last frost date for a particular area. This usually refers to how many weeks prior to the last frost that seeds should be started inside.
“X weeks after the last frost” refers to the time after the average last frost date for a particular area. At this time, the soil has warmed and the night-time temperatures are reliably well above freezing.
“As soon as the ground can be worked” refers to late winter/early spring when the soil is neither frozen nor too wet.
“Direct sow” refers to sowing seeds directly in the soil outdoors. This option is good for short season vegetables or those that do not transplant well (e.g. beans and root vegetables).
“Harden off” refers to a process of slowly adapting plants that have been grown indoors to outdoor exposure over a 1-2 week time period.
What is transplant shock and how do I prevent it?
Transplant shock is the term used to describe the events that help a plant to cope with the stress of being moved from one location to another. Transplanting inevitably disturbs a plant’s root system, making it more difficult for them to take in water and nutrients. Plants may also experience stress after transplanting because they were planted too deeply, too shallowly, or exposed to in conditions they were not well adapted to such as temperature, light intensity, and wind. As a result, the leaves may wilt, roll/curl, and turn yellow or brown. If not corrected, the plants may die or have a reduced yield.
To prevent transplant shock:
Can I use garden or top-soil to start seeds?
To start seeds indoors, it is best to use germination mixes that are designed to produce uniform plant growth and have following characteristics:
How is germination mix made?
Germination mix is usually a blend of sphagnum peat, vermiculite, perlite, and lime, but may also include coir, sand, and other ingredients. The purpose of the most commonly used components is described below:
What fertilizer should I use in my garden?
There are two main types of fertilizers: granular and liquid.
A fertilizer labeled with a higher middle number (example: 5-10-5) is a good choice when transplanting seedlings (potting up or transplanting outdoors) or as a mid-season nutrient boost.
When is my growing season?
The growing season is the time between the last frost and the first frost.
What is my plant hardiness zone?
To determine your plant hardiness zone, visit the USDA Plant Hardiness website and plug in your zip code. Each zone is calculated from the lowest daily minimum temperature recorded over a 30 year period (1976-2005).
How frequently should I water my garden?
There are no hard and fast rules for watering plants. In general, it is recommended that at least 1 inch of water per week is supplied either via rain or irrigation to each plant. However, water requirements depend dramatically on a number of variables, including the type of soil, plant, time of year, weather, and sun/wind exposure. The simplest system to determine whether a plant needs water is to use your fingers. If you dig down 4-6 inches into the soil and the soil is dry to your touch, it is time to water. Alternatively, a moisture meter can be used to instantly determine the soils moisture level. It all depends on how much money you want to spend and how dirty you want to get.
When is the best time to water my garden?
It is best to water outdoor plants in the morning (6 to 9 am) or early evening (5 to 7 pm) to limit water evaporation and to give foliage enough time to dry before the sun goes down. Watering mid-day can cause water droplets to act as a magnifying glass on the leaves surface, which may result in burnt leaves. Watering after sunset is not a good idea because the leaves of plants can remain wet, which will encourage fungal diseases. This is particularly important when watering by hand or when using a sprinkler system (overhead watering).
Heirloom seeds/plants are those that have not been genetically modified, but by nature, have been naturally selected to grow in a particular area. Heirloom plants are open-pollinated and the seeds can be saved and used year-to-year.
Hybrid or F1 indicates that the seeds/plants have been bred artificially using genetics and selective breeding for specific plant traits. Hybrid plants usually produce larger yields and are more disease resistant and uniform in shape than heirlooms. However, these seeds cannot be saved from year-to-year as they may not be “true” to the variety.
What is the difference between indeterminate and determinate tomatoes?
Indeterminate (also called "vining") tomato varieties continue to grow and produce fruit until the plant is killed by frost in the fall. These type of tomatoes can reach 10+ feet tall by the end of the growing season. To help manage these long vines, indeterminate tomatoes require support structures such as cages and/or stakes. Pruning also helps to control growth. Indeterminate tomatoes are not recommended for container gardening due to their large size!
Determinate (also called "bush") tomatoes are genetically modified or naturally selected to grow to a pre-determined compact size (usually less than 4 feet tall). Determinate tomatoes tend to set fruit around the same time period (4-6 weeks) and then the plants die. Cages help to contain bush varieties, but are not necessary for this type of plant. Do not prune these type of tomato (unless to remove diseased or damaged stems) to prevent stunted growth. Determinate tomatoes do well in containers due to their compact size and are an excellent choice for home canners.
What is the difference between pole and bush beans?
Pole beans continue to grow and produce fruit until killed by frost in the fall. Since pole beans can reach 6-8 feet tall by the end of the growing season, support structure (e.g., stakes in a teepee shape or fence-like trellis) are required to manage the long vines. Pole beans need to be picked every other day to keep the vines productive.
Bush beans are compact plants (no more than 3 feet tall) that set fruit and mature quickly over a short period of time and then die. Support structures are not necessary for bush beans.
I found that bush beans are more tender and have a sweeter taste than pole beans which have a nuttier taste. But this may be just due to differences in the variety I grew.
What is the difference between an annual, perennial, and biennial plants?
Annuals are plants that complete their life-cycle within one year. Since the entire plant dies (roots, stems, and leaves), annuals must be replanted the following year. Example: cucumber, peppers, tomato
Perennials are plants that come back year after year. In late fall, the tops of these plants die back but will begin to regrow the following spring. Example: rhubarb, oregano, sage
Biennials are plants that complete their life-cycle in two years. Example: parsley, carrots, leeks
What do the following statements mean?
"X weeks before the last frost" refers to the time before the average last frost date for a particular area. This usually refers to how many weeks prior to the last frost that seeds should be started inside.
“X weeks after the last frost” refers to the time after the average last frost date for a particular area. At this time, the soil has warmed and the night-time temperatures are reliably well above freezing.
“As soon as the ground can be worked” refers to late winter/early spring when the soil is neither frozen nor too wet.
“Direct sow” refers to sowing seeds directly in the soil outdoors. This option is good for short season vegetables or those that do not transplant well (e.g. beans and root vegetables).
“Harden off” refers to a process of slowly adapting plants that have been grown indoors to outdoor exposure over a 1-2 week time period.
What is transplant shock and how do I prevent it?
Transplant shock is the term used to describe the events that help a plant to cope with the stress of being moved from one location to another. Transplanting inevitably disturbs a plant’s root system, making it more difficult for them to take in water and nutrients. Plants may also experience stress after transplanting because they were planted too deeply, too shallowly, or exposed to in conditions they were not well adapted to such as temperature, light intensity, and wind. As a result, the leaves may wilt, roll/curl, and turn yellow or brown. If not corrected, the plants may die or have a reduced yield.
To prevent transplant shock:
- Slowly harden off plants for 2-3 weeks prior to transplanting
- Transplant hardened off plants on a cloudy day
- Minimize root disturbance by using biodegradable pots
- Water plants thoroughly after transplanting and monitor soil moisture levels for several days after transplanting
- Add a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch around the plant to prevent moisture loss
Can I use garden or top-soil to start seeds?
To start seeds indoors, it is best to use germination mixes that are designed to produce uniform plant growth and have following characteristics:
- Free of insects and disease (sterile)
- Fine texture
- pH balanced
- Retains just the right amount of moisture
- Drains well
- Provides adequate aeration
How is germination mix made?
Germination mix is usually a blend of sphagnum peat, vermiculite, perlite, and lime, but may also include coir, sand, and other ingredients. The purpose of the most commonly used components is described below:
- Sphagnum peat and coir are organic materials that provide seedling with a fine, yet sturdy medium for encouraging strong root growth
- Vermiculite is a lightweight and porous natural mineral that helps to retain moisture and aerate the mixture
- Perlite is a silica-based volcanic rock that helps to improve drainage and aerate the mixture
- Ground limestone (lime) is used to adjust the pH of the mixture
What fertilizer should I use in my garden?
There are two main types of fertilizers: granular and liquid.
- Liquid fertilizers are fast-acting, but require application every 2-3 weeks.
- Granular fertilizers are applied dry and must be watered in to be absorbed by the plant. Granular fertilizers may either be quick-release or slow-release. Quick-release formulas last up to 4 weeks and slow-release formulas last up to 8 weeks, depending on the amount of rainfall.
- 1st # = Nitrogen (N) = promotes leaf development and vivid green color
- 2nd # = Phosphorus (P) = promotes growth of roots, fruits, and flowers
- 3rd # = Potassium (K) = promotes disease resistance
A fertilizer labeled with a higher middle number (example: 5-10-5) is a good choice when transplanting seedlings (potting up or transplanting outdoors) or as a mid-season nutrient boost.
When is my growing season?
The growing season is the time between the last frost and the first frost.
- Last frost = average date on which a particular area experiences its last freezing temperatures; occurs in the spring
- First frost = average date on which a particular area experiences its first freezing temperatures; occurs in the fall
What is my plant hardiness zone?
To determine your plant hardiness zone, visit the USDA Plant Hardiness website and plug in your zip code. Each zone is calculated from the lowest daily minimum temperature recorded over a 30 year period (1976-2005).
How frequently should I water my garden?
There are no hard and fast rules for watering plants. In general, it is recommended that at least 1 inch of water per week is supplied either via rain or irrigation to each plant. However, water requirements depend dramatically on a number of variables, including the type of soil, plant, time of year, weather, and sun/wind exposure. The simplest system to determine whether a plant needs water is to use your fingers. If you dig down 4-6 inches into the soil and the soil is dry to your touch, it is time to water. Alternatively, a moisture meter can be used to instantly determine the soils moisture level. It all depends on how much money you want to spend and how dirty you want to get.
When is the best time to water my garden?
It is best to water outdoor plants in the morning (6 to 9 am) or early evening (5 to 7 pm) to limit water evaporation and to give foliage enough time to dry before the sun goes down. Watering mid-day can cause water droplets to act as a magnifying glass on the leaves surface, which may result in burnt leaves. Watering after sunset is not a good idea because the leaves of plants can remain wet, which will encourage fungal diseases. This is particularly important when watering by hand or when using a sprinkler system (overhead watering).
